Located west of Kyoto’s famous district of Arashiyama, Sagano offers a more discreet and serene face of the city, far from the intense use of the main bamboo grove. Half a day is enough to explore its ancient alleyways, peaceful temples and spiritual landscapes. Here is a suggested itinerary to discover the emblematic places of this neighborhood, a true parenthesis out of time.
How to access Sagano
Sagano is easily accessible from downtown Kyoto. The JR Sagano line takes you directly to the Saga-Arashiyama station. From this station, several hiking routes allow you to access the different sites of the district. It is recommended to start early in the morning to fully enjoy the ambient calm, before the arrival of groups of visitors.
Otagi Nenbutsu-ji temple: joyous strangeness
Nestled in height, this little frequented Buddhist temple is unique of its kind. It houses about 1,200 stone statues calledrakan, representing the disciples of Buddha. Sculpted by amateurs in the 1980s, they present a wide variety of expressions, ranging from comic to meditative. Covered with foam, they create a mysterious and caring atmosphere.
The temple is surrounded by greenery and slippery stone stairs, and it is advisable to wear comfortable and non-slip shoes.
Saga Toriimoto: authenticity of old alleyways
Continuing downhill from Otagi Nenbutsu-ji, you enter the Saga Toriimoto district. This historic hamlet is a vestige of the rural past of Kyoto. There aremachiya(traditional wooden houses) and carefully restored thatched houses.
The entrance to the neighbourhood is marked by atorii, sacred portal indicating the presence of a sanctuary. This route once led pilgrims to Mount Atago, famous for its Shinto sanctuary dedicated to fire prevention.
Saga Toriimoto also houses craft shops and tea houses, perfect for a break.
Adashino Nenbutsu-ji temple: memory and recollection
This temple occupies a place historically dedicated to funeral rites. In ancient times, the dead were abandoned here, in the midst of nature. Today, about 8,000 small stone statues and steles form a dense and solemn ensemble, bearing witness to an ancient cult of the deceased.
The atmosphere is loaded, sometimes confusing. However, the bamboo-lined road leading to it is one of the most beautiful in the region. The bamboo, symbol of vitality, contrasts with the frozen stones of the dead, creating a poignant dialogue between life and disappearance.
Gio-ji Temple: Intimacy of Foam
This small temple is famous for its garden covered with a carpet of thick and silky foams. The atmosphere is felt, almost silent. The place is conducive to meditation. The main foam, nicknamed “weave bean”, offers shades of deep green that change according to light and humidity.
The autumn is particularly spectacular: the red leaves of maples create a striking contrast with the soft green of the soil.
The Jojakko-ji Temple: panorama and serenity
Located on a hill, this Buddhist temple offers a beautiful view of Kyoto. Its gently sloping garden is marked by stone staircases, old and maple lanterns.
The two-storey pagoda, built in the early Edo era, emerges among the foliage. It is one of the most popular photographic points in Sagano.
The site is little frequented during the week, and allows to walk without precipitation in a preserved natural setting.
Villa Okochi Sanso: art of living and panoramic view
Former residence of cinema actor Okochi Denjiro, this 20th century villa is now open to the public. The vast walking garden that surrounds it offers an overview of the Japanese garden in all its diversity: bamboos, pines, cherry trees, ponds, stones, and gravel trails.
The entrance (1 000 yen) includes a powdered green tea tasting served in a traditional pavilion with mountain views.
The main interest of the villa lies in the feeling of being immersed in nature while discovering a refined lifestyle.
Suggested route for half a day
- Departure:JR Saga-Arashiyama station
- First stop:Otagi Nenbutsu-ji (access by bus or walk)
- Walking through Saga Toriimoto
- Pause at Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple
- Continue to Gio-ji or Jojakko-ji
- End of visit: villa Okochi Sanso with view of the bamboo grove of Arashiyama
The route can be reversed depending on your point of entry or time of arrival. For those who wish to extend the visit, the bamboo forest of Arashiyama, although very popular, remains accessible from the villa.
Exploring Sagano is getting to a more intimate Kyoto. This half day plunges you into the atmosphere of old residential areas and preserved temples, away from the bustle of tourist circuits. It is a journey in silence, moss, stone and bamboo paths, where one perceives the breath of time
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