In Nagaoka, Niigata Prefecture, Kina Saffron Shu Brewery offers a unique testimony to Japanese brewing history and the craftsmanship that ties it together. Founded in the late 19th century by Nitaro Yoshizawa, this brewery marked the Meiji and Showa era with its famous medicinal elixir based on saffron. Today, the ten buildings still preserved, classified as tangible cultural property, allow visitors to explore an unknown part of Japanese culture. To discover this site is to travel through time, understand the techniques, symbols and beliefs that shaped the life and business of the time.
History of the Kina Saffron Shu Brewery
The brewery was born in 1887, when Nitaro Yoshizawa launched an original beverage: a medicinal alcohol made from saffron, honey, licorice, cinnamon and other selected plants. This “saffron-shu” was a huge success, becoming an essential product throughout the country. The massed fortune allowed Yoshizawa to develop an impressive complex consisting of residence, warehouses, reception and gardens, built over nearly forty years, from 1894 to 1931.
Beyond commercial success, the entrepreneur permeated the buildings with protective symbols and wishes for prosperity, a way of linking economic activity and spirituality. This aspect now gives the visit a historical, aesthetic and cultural dimension.
Classified and preserved buildings
The site has ten buildings, some of which are open to the public on weekends and public holidays. The ensemble, consisting of stone walls, attices, warehouses and residences, was recognized as tangible cultural property by the Japan Agency for Cultural Affairs. The buildings once housed headquarters, rice warehouses, tool stores, reception rooms and even a separate lounge dedicated to branded guests.
Among the most remarkable buildings are the trowel warehouse, adorned with relief paintings made in 1926 by the master plasterer Kawakami Ikichi. The coloured patterns, applied to the trowel on black and white walls in the Namako style, are considered one of the most beautiful examples of this type of art in Japan.
The symbolic world of Yoshizawa Nitaro
The brewery is not limited to an architectural feat. Nitaro Yoshizawa integrated into his buildings and gardens a multitude of protective and propitiatory symbols. Chinese dragons, “i-no-me” motifs in the shape of a wild boar eye, mythological animals such as the phoenix or the black turtle: every detail was designed to conjure up misfortune and attract prosperity.
This system of symbols, which could be described as “Nitaro world”, illustrates a conception where trade, nature and beliefs are mixed. Visitors can read the walls and gardens as a book of intentions and prayers, reflecting a time when entrepreneurship accompanied a spiritual quest.
The gardens and the annex
The site also includes a Japanese garden of 2,500 m2 adjacent to the guest house. Designed to welcome and impress guests, it brings together monumental stones, lanterns, maples, pines and camellias. The volcanic rocks, transported from Mount Asama 200 km away, form spectacular miniature hills that give the place a majestic atmosphere.
The annex, for its part, seduces with its rare materials such as black persimmon wood or Yakushima cedar, which have become impossible to obtain nowadays. Long corridors of zelkova massive, openwork walls “kumiko” shaped without nails or glue, refined furniture and dragon paintings complete this exceptional set.
Conversion and the fermentation museum
In a desire to preserve and enhance, some of the warehouses have been renovated. The former rice attic was transformed into the Setagaya 6th Street Fermentation Museum, inaugurated in 2020. This place highlights the local history of fermentation, whether it be sake, soy sauce or medicinal products. Bottles of saffron-shu continue to be produced in retro packaging, offering visitors a tasteful experience that connects past and present.
Settaya’s place in Nagaoka’s history
The brewery is located in a particular district of Nagaoka: Settaya. This sector, preserved during the 1945 bombings, includes several breweries and workshops related to fermentation. Its geographical location, between rivers and commercial routes, as well as favourable regulation, have favoured the growth of this activity for centuries. Today, the neighbourhood retains this unique atmosphere where crafts, heritage and gastronomy coexist.
Practical tips for the visit
The site is open to the public on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays, from 9am to 5pm. It is closed on Tuesdays (delivered to the next day if it is a public holiday) and during the end-of-year holidays. A 43-seater parking is available, some of which are suitable for tourist buses.
To access it, it is recommended to reach Nagaoka from Niigata or Tokyo by the shinkansen, and then head to Settaya, an area easily accessible by local bus or taxi. Allowing about two hours on site allows you to enjoy the open buildings, the garden and the particular atmosphere of the neighborhood.
Why include Kina Saffron Shu Brewery in a route
For a curious traveller to discover an unknown facet of Japan, the Kina Saffron Shu Brewery is a must-see stop. The place offers a rare mix of preserved architecture, industrial history and spirituality inscribed in the walls. It also illustrates the importance of sake and fermented beverages in Japanese culture, while highlighting the role of the Niigata region as a cradle of brewing traditions.
Heritage lovers will find a precious testimony from the Meiji and Showa era. Japanese garden enthusiasts will appreciate the neat arrangement and the use of rare materials. Finally, gourmets will have the opportunity to taste an alcohol that marked their time, while discovering the wider universe of Settaya fermentations.
Exploring the Kina Saffron Shu Brewery is more than just a brewery: it is entering a world where history, crafts and beliefs meet. A step that enriches any stay in the Niigata region and allows you to grasp the richness of Japanese heritage beyond the beaten path.
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