Matsushiro Castle, formerly known as Kaizu Castle, was erected in 1560 at the initiative of Yamamoto Kansuke, a strategist of the famous Takeda Shingen Warlord. The site, carefully chosen between two Chikuma River beds, had defensive advantages while facilitating the monitoring of commercial and military roads in Shinano province. The site is also part of the many battles of Kawanakajima, the theatre of major confrontations between Takeda Shingen and Uesugi Kenshin.
The military interest of the castle is twofold of symbolic importance: it served as an advanced post and administrative centre in the region. After the decline of the Takeda clan, the fortress passed successively under the authority of the Oda, Uesugi, then the Sanada clan, which made it its main residence throughout the Edo era.
A typical Edo defensive architecture
Originally built in wood, earth and stone, the castle of Matsushiro adopts a concentric structure, typical of Japanese castles on the plain. The main enclosure (honmaru) once housed a dungeon, replaced by a watchtower (yagura) after its destruction. This central area was surrounded by moat and protected by earth walls and ramparts.
Around Honmaru, the secondary enclosures (ni-no-maru and san-no-maru) formed additional defensive layers. Each was equipped with ditches – some filled with water, other dry ones – and fortified doors. The palace of the lord was in the enclosure of Hana-no-maru, separated from military structures but close to residential areas.
The whole was a complex defensive device, designed to resist a seat and control movements in the surrounding plain.
Time tests: fires, floods and earthquakes
Like many Japanese castles, Matsushiro has suffered many damage over the centuries. A major fire in 1717 required reconstruction financed by Tokugawa Shogunate. Less than thirty years later, in 1742, a flood damaged the building again. Restorations continued until the end of the 18th century, but an earthquake in 1847, followed by another fire in 1853, forced further work.
These natural disasters reveal the vulnerability of wood structures and the difficulty of maintaining complex structures in a humid environment. They also explain the multiple phases of reconstruction, sometimes with slightly modified materials or plans.
The end of feudal system and the disappearance of the castle
With the restoration of Meiji (1868) and the abolition of the Han system, the castle of Matsushiro lost its administrative function. In 1871, most of the buildings still standing were dismantled as part of a national modernization programme. Two years later, arson ended destroying what was left.
Only stone foundations then remain, keeping the footprint of the original layout. However, the site remains in the local collective memory as the centre of power of the Sanada clan, which is highly respected in the region.
Faithful restoration and a site accessible to visitors
In 2003, several doors and related buildings were rebuilt using traditional Japanese techniques, based on historical archives and photographs. The ditches have been restored to water, the ramparts consolidated, and the approaches renovated to accommodate visitors. The result is a rare example of respectful restoration, without pastiche or excessive modernization.
Today, Matsushiro Castle is listed as a national historic site. It is open to the public all year round and is an instructive stopover for those travelling to Nagano or exploring the castle route in central Japan.
What I can see around the castle
The Matsushiro district retains a coherent set of historic buildings dating from the Edo period. You can visit:
- The former Han School (hankō), education centre for children of samurai
- Several samurai residences, well preserved and open to visitors
- A museum dedicated to the Sanada clan, where weapons, parchments and everyday objects are displayed
- The underground imperial headquarters of Matsushiro, built during the Second World War, bears witness to a very different period of Japanese history.
Together, we can better understand political, military and educational life in a field city (jōkamachi).
Practical tips for the visit
The castle is accessible by bus from Nagano station, towards Matsushiro. The journey takes about 30 minutes, and the site is located a few minutes walk from the bus stop. It is advisable to wear comfortable shoes because some areas of the site have gravel roads or narrow passageways.
For a thorough visit, schedule about two hours on site. During the flowering period of the cherry trees or in autumn, the natural setting particularly highlights the restored moat and buildings. Most of the information panels on the site are in Japanese, but some areas are equipped with English translations. A specialized guide or travel planner can enrich the experience considerably.
The castle of Matsushiro offers a direct dive into Japan of warlords and samurai. Far from the overcrowded tourist routes, this well-preserved site deserves a detour for those passionate about Japanese history, architecture and culture. It fits perfectly into a journey through the Nagano region, rich in mountains, temples and ancient feudal domains.
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