Present in Japan for more than a millennium, go play is an integral part of the Japanese cultural landscape. Both spirit sport and art object, he has shaped a tradition where strategy, crafts and transmission intertwine. This article offers you an immersion in the world of go in Japan, exploring its history, its iconic objects and places to practice it on a trip.
Go game: origins and development in Japan
Go, or igo, finds its roots in ancient China, but it is in Japan that it has acquired a unique place, becoming a strategic art associated with elites. Introduced to Japan about 1,300 years ago, the game quickly seduced aristocratic and military circles. The samurai saw it as a tool to refine their tactical skills. Over the centuries, vocational go schools have been established, with the establishment of official titles and a competitive hierarchy.
In the Edo era, the Honinbo House played a major role in structuring the world of go, training generations of masters. This era also marks the appearance of a Japanese style of play, oriented towards strategic elegance and the depth of forms.
The popularity of go has seen several waves, especially thanks to the media coverage of some tournaments and contemporary cultural works such as mangaHikaru no Go. The impact of recent events, like the victory of AlphaGo over a professional player in 2016, has also revived the global interest in this millennium game.
The goban: a plateau precisely shaped
The goban is much more than just a game medium. It reflects a craft aesthetic and rigour that illustrates the Japanese philosophy of the utilitarian object raised to the rank of art work. Traditionally designed as a low table on feet, it is used in sitting position on the ground, which reinforces the ceremonial dimension of the parts.
Japanese goban are made in wood chosen for its density, sound and texture. The kaya wood, endemic to Japan, is the most sought after. Its slow growth makes it a rare and precious resource. Boards from the heart of the trunk, where the wooden veins are parallel to the lines of the plateau, are the most popular. Each goban is carved in a single piece of solid wood and can reach tens of thousands of euros.
An amazing element lies in the route of the goban lines. These are painted with lacquer using a Japanese sword, in a technique calledtachi-mori. The grid is not perfectly square but slightly adjusted to correct the seated player’s perspective, giving an illusion of visual balance.
Go stones: slate and shell goishi
Japanese go stones, orGoishiThey are distinguished by their craft manufacture. Black stones are cut in slate, while whites come from shellingHamaguriformerly harvested in Hyuga, on Kyushu Island. Since this shell is more abundant locally, Japanese artisans now import shells from Mexico, while maintaining their traditional method of hand polishing.
Each stone is unique. The natural striations of the shells, visible on white stones, are valued as marks of authenticity. A complete game contains 361 stones, including 181 black and 180 white. Depending on the thickness and fineness of the material, prices can vary considerably. High-end stones are sorted by caliber for optimal regularity in hand and in sound on the goban.
Stone bowls: simplicity and refinement of Japanese wood
To preserve go stones, hand-turned wooden bowls are used. They integrate into the overall aesthetic of the game and also reflect Japanese attention to natural materials. Each bowl is cut in a single piece of wood, often in noble species such as camphor, plaqueminier (kurokaki) or mulberry from Mikura-jima. The choice of wood aims to combine lightness, strength and beauty of apparent veins.
The lids of the bowls also play a role during the game, especially to store the captured stones. The tray-stone-bol set is an emblematic triptych of Japanese refinement applied to a functional object.
Where to play go in Japan?
If you master the rules of go or want to introduce yourself during a trip to Japan, many trade fairs calledigo-saronIt is open to visitors. These establishments, often discreet and frequented by regulars, offer a friendly environment to play a few hours or the whole day. The tariff generally includes access to equipment and sometimes drinks.
In Tokyo, several salons are accessible to non-Japanese speakers. TheCoffee and Go Hidamarioffers a welcoming setting where one can play without any particular commitment. The Nihon Ki-in, Japan’s professional go centre, also has its own gaming salon.
Nihon Ki-in : professional go centre
The Nihon Ki-in, located in Tokyo, is the leading Japanese go institution. It hosts major competitions, such as the Meijin or Kisei, as well as training programmes for future professionals. The building houses a museum retracing the history of go, a specialized shop, and a public lounge.
Every summer, the Nihon Ki-in organizes an intensive internship for foreign players. Guided by well-known professionals, participants benefit from daily courses, commented games and moments of exchange with figures from the world of go. This internship concludes with a prestigious amateur tournament:Takara Shuzo Cup.
Honinbo Shusaku Museum in Innoshima
To deepen its immersion in the history of go, a visit to the Honinbo Shusaku Museum on Innoshima Island is highly recommended. Shusaku (1829–62), considered a genius of go, is native to this island of the inland Sea of Seto. The museum presents historical objects, ancient gobans, as well as archives on the most famous parts of the master. It is a place of pilgrimage for many enthusiasts.
Rediscovering the game of go in Japan is both exploring the art of strategy, meeting exceptional artisans and opening up to an unknown part of Japanese culture. Whether you are a seasoned player or a curious beginner, Japan offers a rich and lively setting to approach go in all its facets.
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