Located in northern Oita Prefecture, on Kyushu Island, the city of Usa remains little known to foreign travellers, despite the richness of its cultural heritage, its preserved landscapes and its specific culinary traditions. Accessible from Beppu or Fukuoka, Usa is a peaceful and profound step for those interested in Japanese religious history, popular arts and natural spaces.
The Sanctuary Usa Jingu: cradle of the Hachiman cult
Usa Jingu is one of the most important shrines in Japan, founder of the Hachiman cult, the guardian deity of warriors. Built in the eighth century, this Shinto shrine still attracts many pilgrims today, especially during the spring and autumn festivals. The entire site extends over several hectares of sacred forest, with numerous buildings painted in vermillon and paths bordered by stone lanterns.
The architecture of the sanctuary follows a specific style called Hachiman-zukuri, which is found only in Usa and in a few derived sanctuaries. The place offers a solemn atmosphere, reinforced by the presence of ancient cypresses and ritual pools. Visitors can observe the rites of purification, the prayers of vows, and the offering of sacred arrows (hamaya) during the New Year.
Yokkaichi Monzen district: old streets and shops
This historic area near the Sanctuary Usa Jingu retains an atmosphere of small town of Edo period. The paved streets, wooden facades, and hanging lanterns give a picturesque character to the promenade. Several shops offer artisanal objects, incense, amulet or local sweets.
The area also hosts small restaurants serving regional specialities. It is an ideal place to taste the atmosphere of a pilgrimage city, with its old-fashioned cafes and renovated houses.
The Toukuji Temple and the 500 Stone Arhats
A few kilometres south of the city centre, the Tokouji Temple is distinguished by its collection of 500 statues of Rakan (arhats), representing the Buddha’s disciples. Each of these statues, carved in stone, has a unique expression, ranging from serene meditation to laughter. Aligned in a landscape of forest and moss, these figures form a striking ensemble, evoking both recollection and humanity.
The site remains relatively discreet, often deserted during the week, allowing a silent and introspective visit. Visitors can follow a small path that winds between statues, then go to the main temple building, where there are sometimes temporary exhibitions of Buddhist objects or calligraphy.
Senzai Farm: agriculture, crafts and local hospitality
To discover rural life in Usa, Senzai Farm offers an immersion in local cultures. This diverse farm offers activities such as picking vegetables or fruit by season, manufacturing soy or rice products, and cooking demonstrations. The reception is often provided by local families who share their daily lives and farming practices.
Some formulas include on-site meals, composed of fresh produce, as well as rustic accommodation in traditional appendices. The site is intended for both children and adults and is part of an agri-cultural tourism network developed in the Ajimu region.
Takasu Kannon and Takasu Bridge Park
Takasu Kannon is a small Buddhist temple located at the foot of a cliff, surrounded by dense vegetation. The site includes a statue of Kannon (Goddess of compassion) as well as a set of caves and stairways leading to gazebos. From the heights, you can see the Takasu Bridge, which spans the river on a simple stone arch, forming a picturesque setting appreciated in autumn for red foliage.
The adjacent park offers rest areas, small walking trails and explanatory signs on local geology. The site remains accessible all year round, with few visitors outside the flowering or koyo periods.
The Oni-e Festival: Fire rituals and demonic dances
Every beginning of February, Usa hosts the Oni-e festival, a spectacular ritual rooted in local beliefs. The monks of the local temple put on masks of demons (oni) and walk around the neighborhood, torches by hand, to chase the evil spirits. This ancient rite, unique to the Kunisaki and Usa regions, aims to purify homes and ensure security for the coming year.
The main ceremony takes place in the evening, in front of an audience mixing inhabitants and visitors. The atmosphere is both intense and codified: drums, incantations, fire, and physical contacts between monks-oni and spectators. This festival, classified as a local intangible cultural property, is a highlight of the religious and community life of the city.
Ajimu-machi and the Temple of Hell
The village of Ajimu, attached to Usa, houses a surprising temple dedicated to Buddhist hells. Through murals, expressive statues and scenographic paths, this temple depicts the judgments after death, the punishments inflicted on the wrong souls and the possibility of redemption.
Visitors can thus walk through the different stages of hell, guided by the representations of the ten infernal judges. Although the whole has an educational and spiritual function, the deliberately disturbing atmosphere fascinates as much as it questions. Signs in English facilitate understanding of symbolism for non-Japanese travellers.
Takkiri Ravine: fresh gorges and wooded trails
The Takkiri ravine, dug by the waters over millennia, forms a green corridor punctuated by small rapids and basins. The place is popular in summer for its freshness and its possibilities of swimming in clear water. Trails along the river are shaded and accessible to all levels of walkers.
Small wooden bridges allow you to cross the gorge at different points. The site is particularly pleasant for photographers or those who want to take a break away from urbanized areas. In autumn, red maples also attract visitors looking for colourful landscapes.
Higashi Shiiya waterfall: waterfall hidden in forest
The Higashi Shiiya waterfall is one of the most picturesque in the region. It falls into a thin net on a dark wall, in a peaceful silence, often disturbed only by the song of birds. The site is joined by a short walk from a small forest parking lot. The place is little frequented, making it a suitable place for contemplation.
Around the waterfall there are a few benches and a platform of observation. The surrounding vegetation varies with the seasons, with an abundance of moss and ferns. This destination is suitable for a few hours trip from the city centre of Usa.
Museums of Usa: history and local memory
The Prefectural Museum of History of Oita, located in the rural area of Usa, presents collections ranging from prehistoric to modern times. Emphasis is placed on regional culture, the evolution of religious structures, everyday objects and documents related to the Usa Jingu shrine. Temporary exhibitions often focus on archaeology or cultural exchanges with mainland Asia.
The Usa City Peace Memory Museum traces the events of the 20th century, including the Pacific War, bombing and post-war reconstruction. It includes testimonies, period objects and a projection room.
Culinary specialties of Usa: terroir and diversity
Usa offers varied local cuisine, influenced by the inland sea and the surrounding farmland. Among the specific dishes, you can taste theAjimu suppon, a farmed turtle soup prized for its gelatinous texture and its supposed health benefits. Thedojō d, fresh water fish, is often prepared in nabe or fried.
Other specialty:Toyosachi crab, local crab often grilled or prepared in donburi. TheOita Ajiichi Negiis a variety of sweet chives grown in the region, used in soups or garnish. Finally, thekaraage of Usa, fried chicken marinated, is famous throughout the prefecture. Several shops offer their own version, to taste on site or take away.
Taking the time to discover Usa, the traveller gets to a more discreet but equally essential facet of Japan: that of a territory where spirituality, nature, traditions and daily life mix together in a tangible, accessible and memorable way.
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