The city of Aomori in Aomori Prefecture is the northernmost prefectural capital of Honshu. This port city was the main departure point to Hokkaido by ferry and, although it remains the main port for the ferries, the opening of the underwater railway tunnel Seikan and the advent of cheap flights have reduced the number of passengers and many travellers now completely bypass the city. Today, Aomori is best known for its spectacular summer festival Nebuta Matsuri.
Nebuta matsuri
Nebuta and Neputa are summer festivals linked to Tanabata (or hoshi matsuri), which evokes the story of two lovers Orihime and Hikoboshi who, separated by the milky way, could only meet once a year, the seventh night of the seventh month: the tanabata. The largest of these festivals is the Nebuta Matsuri in the city of Aomori, which is held every year from 2 to 7 August. The highlight of the festival is the daily parade of huge tank-lanterns, flanked by large taiko drums, musicians and dancers. The Tohoku Sandai Matsuri (three major festivals in the Tohoku region) is formed by the Nebuta Matsuri, the Kanto Matsuri of Akita and the Tanabata of Sendai.
Local teams design and build the festival’s two dozen tanks made of washi wallpaper on a wire frame during the year preceding the festival. They can measure up to nine metres wide and five metres high and often represent gods, historical or mythical characters of Japanese and Chinese culture, kabuki actors and Taiga Drama characters (annual historical saga broadcast by NHK, very popular in Japan).
Every evening of the festival, the tank-lanterns march through the streets of downtown Aomori (except on the last day when the parade takes place in the afternoon). The tanks are pushed along the street by human force, snaking and waving for the crowd. Each tank is accompanied by taiko drums, flute and cymbal players, as well as hundreds of dancers (haneto in the local dialect), who follow the procession by chanting “Rassera, Rassera” while performing a folk dance.
On the nights of August 4th to 6th, the parades were full and all the tanks marched. All tanks are also exhibited during the afternoon parade on the last day of the festival, before some are put on boats and will sail in the bay in the evening. Finally, a two-hour fireworks fire along the seafront closes the festivities.
Nebuta Warasse
Nebuta Warasse is an interesting museum dedicated to the city’s famous Nebuta Matsuri, which is held every year in early August. The museum is located in a unique building covered with red metal slats and stands along the seafront district of Aomori, north of the Aomori train station.
The Nebuta Warasse Museum tries to capture the spirit of the festival and gives visitors a taste of its lively atmosphere, history and traditions. The second floor recreates the festival’s atmosphere along a red corridor lined with photos and images of the 300 years of Nebuta Matsuri’s history. Goldfish lanterns, another symbol of the festival, are suspended along the corridor where the recorded sounds of taiko drums, flutes and voices play.
On weekends and public holidays, haneto dancers demonstrate their traditional dance with music played on taiko drums and flutes. Nebuta Warasse also has a well-stocked restaurant and museum shop selling all kinds of local food and souvenirs.
Furukawa Fish Market
The Furukawa Fish Market (also known as the Aomori Gyosai Centre) is a public fish market in central Aomori. Just like the fish market in Auga a few blocks north, the fish market in Furukawa is full of tight rows of traders selling all sorts of local products.
What makes the Furukawa fish market special is a system that allows visitors to compose their own donburi (a bowl of rice on which a garnish is available) to seafood (called nokkedon) from local seasonal seafood sold directly on the market.
To create your own nokkedon, buy tickets, which are sold in lots of five (750 yen) or ten (1500 yen). Each ticket can be exchanged for items on the market. Use your tickets to buy a bowl of rice (one ticket for a regular portion, two tickets for a large portion), then walk around and discover what fish farmers have to sell. Most sell a variety of raw fish, crab, crustaceans, seaweeds, fish eggs and other small servings, priced between one and three tickets. Buy what you want and they will have the ingredients on your rice.
Then go to one of the tables around the market. Condiments such as wasabi, soy sauce and ginger are provided in addition to free tea and water. Hot miso soups and small pickle trays can also be purchased with your tickets from different sellers.
Hakkodamaru Boat Museum
Until the opening of the Seikan tunnel in 1988, the ferry was the main means of transport between Honshu and Hokkaido, and Aomori served as a hub for passengers. With the opening of the railway tunnel, ferries have lost much of their importance, although ferries continue to connect Aomori to Hakodate today. One of the former ferries, Hakkodamaru now serves as a memorial in the past.
After completing his last voyage in 1988, the Hakkodamaru withdrew to the port of Aomori where he remained permanently moored as a museum ship. Two of its twin ships, the Masumaru and the Yoteimaru, have also been converted into museum ships and can be seen respectively at the port of Hakodate and the maritime museum of Odaiba.
To Aomori
Take a Hayabusa train on the JR Tohoku Shinkansen from Tokyo to Shin-Aomori (3.5 hours) After a transfer, take a local or limited express train to the Aomori train station (5 minutes). The one-way journey takes about four hours, costs about 17,500 yen and is fully covered by the Japan Rail Pass, the JR East Tohoku Area Pass and the JR East South Hokkaido Pass. Seat reservations are mandatory on Hayabusa trains. There is about one connection per hour.
Aomori is an interesting and pleasant stopover city regardless of the time of year, especially at the time of Nebuta matsuri. This stage to get to Hokkaido Island (notably by ferry) is worth a while.
Si cet article vous a apporté des informations utiles et peut aider d’autres voyageurs à préparer leur séjour, un avis Google en cliquant sur l’image suivante sera toujours apprécié.
Discover more from Evasions Rebelles - Travel Planner Japon
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.
