Kōshū Kaidō is one of the five major roads in Japan from the Edo period, connecting the former capital of Edo (present-day Tokyo) to Kai Province (now Yamanashi), before joining Nakasendō in the current Nagano prefecture. This road, although less well known than Tōkaidō or Nakasendō, crosses a mosaic of hilly landscapes, historic villages and remarkable cultural sites. Following the Kōshū Kaidō route today is exploring a more discreet but deeply rooted facet of historical Japan.
Origin and strategic role of Kōshū Kaidō
Set up by Tokugawa Shogunate in the early seventeenth century, Kōshū Kaidō’s main goal was to connect Edo to the central Shinano region, Nagano, through Kai Province. It was an essential route for daimyō in central Japan during the alternating residence system (sankin kōtai), forcing them to travel to Edo at regular intervals.
In addition to its administrative functions, the road facilitated the transport of goods, including rice, silks, handicrafts and wood. Its proximity to the mountains made it a difficult but essential logistical route. With its 44 relays (shukuba), it offered regular stops to travellers, samurai, pilgrims and traders.
The Kōshū Kaidō route
The starting point of Kōshū Kaidō is Nihonbashi, the famous central bridge of Edo, from which all Japanese roads were measured. It then crosses several quarters of Tokyo, including Shinjuku and Suginami, before sinking into the western part of the capital.
The road continues towards Hino, Hachiōji, then Sagamihara in Kanagawa prefecture, before gradually climbing in the foothills of the Japanese Alps. After crossing Kōfu, capital of Yamanashi Prefecture, she finally joined Shimousuwa in Nagano Prefecture, where she connected to Nakasendō.
The main steps and their attractiveness
Shinjuku and Suginami: urban remains
Kōshū Kaidō’s first stations pass through today’s densely urbanized areas. In Shinjuku, the district of Naitō Shinjuku retains some remains of this period, including signs and ancient temples. In Suginami, some old relay houses remain, even if they are integrated into the modern urban fabric.
Fuchū and Hachiōji: witnesses to a feudal past
Fuchū and Hachiōji were two major stages on the road, with well equipped relays. In Hachiōji, several traditional buildings remain, and restoration efforts have led to the upgrading of certain segments of the route. The city also houses traditional festivals commemorating its historic importance.
Kanagawa Mountains: steep passages
From Komagino and Kobotoke, the road crosses more mountainous areas. Kobotoke Pass (Kobotoke Tōge) still offers an accessible hiking trail that faithfully follows the old road, punctuated with stone pillars and explanatory panels.
Tsuki and Katsunuma: wine landscapes and deep valleys
In the area of dsuki, the road winds along the river Katsura and passes close to the famous monkey bridge (Saruhashi), a hanging wooden structure used since medieval times. Further on, Katsunuma marks the heart of the Koshu wine region, known for its native white grape variety.
Kōfu and its surroundings: Yamanashi cultural heart
Kōfu, the historic capital of Kai Province, was a major milestone on Kōshū Kaidō. You can visit the ruins of the castle of Kōfu, former fief of Takeda Shingen, emblematic figure of the Japanese civil war. The city preserves several shrines and temples related to this period.
To Shimousuwa: uphill
The final portion of Kōshū Kaidō leads through the steep valleys and pine forests of Upper Suwa. Shimousuwa, a branch to Nakasendō, houses the Suwa Taisha shrine, one of the oldest in Japan. This area is also known for its hot springs and mountain landscapes.
The Kōshū Kaidō today
Today, most of the Kōshū Kaidō is followed by National Road 20, an important road between Tokyo and Nagano. However, several segments of the old road were preserved, sometimes marked for hikers, or rehabilitated in pedestrian streets in the stage cities.
Walking enthusiasts can borrow restored portions, including around Hachiōji, In some places, local associations offer guided tours or exhibitions of the history of the road.
It is also possible to travel by train along the route, thanks to the line JR Chūō, which follows approximately the route of the old track. This option allows you to discover the key steps while adapting your itinerary to the length of the stay.
Local specialities along the road
Kōshū Kaidō crosses several rich culinary terroirs. In the Yamanashi area, there are the hōtō, thick noodles served in a miso soup with vegetables. Katsunuma is famous for its wines from Koshu grape variety, cultivated for over a century in the surrounding hills.
In Suwa, visitors can enjoy local sakes, grilled river trout, and traditional marinated vegetables. Each relay historically offered its own specialities to travellers, still perpetuating this culinary diversity.
Cultural and artistic heritage
Kōshū Kaidō left a mark on Japanese culture. It appears in many prints of the Edo era, notably in the series of Utagawa Hiroshige, which immortalized the landscapes of the Japanese roads.
Local folklore, the stories of samurai traveling and the chronicles of daimyō have also fed a rich literary and oral tradition linked to this road. In several cities, museums and interpretation centres highlight this heritage.
Prepare a route on the Kōshū Kaidō
A stay along the Kōshū Kaidō can be considered over a few days or as part of a longer journey through central Japan. It is advisable to choose sections adapted to the desired level of walking and to identify major points of interest.
Train stations along the Chūō line provide great flexibility, while some villages offer traditional accommodation such as minshuku or ryokan. Provide comfortable shoes, mountain-friendly clothing and, if possible, trail maps are recommended.
Rediscovering Kōshū Kaidō is exploring a discreet Japan, rooted in the mountains and central valleys. This ancient path links not only places, but also stories, know-how, and regional traditions. A route for curious travelers, looking for authenticity and unspoilt landscapes.
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