The historic route from Edo to Shirakawa

The Kaidō Shū is one of Japan’s former major roads of the Edo era. Designed to connect Edo (present-day Tokyo) to Shirakawa, in the present prefecture of Fukushima, this road had a strategic and administrative function. It also provided an environment conducive to cultural exchanges and meetings between travellers of the time. Even today, its historic route is visible in places, and is a great opportunity to discover Japan on foot, away from the crowds.

Interactive map of the Oshu Kaido

An essential state road under Tokugawa Ieyasu

Kaidō is one of the Gokaidō, the five major official roads created in the early seventeenth century by Tokugawa Shogunate. This route linked the Shogunal capital Edo to the north-eastern regions of Japan, including Mutsu province, through key cities such as Utsuomiya, Nasushiobara and Shirakawa.

It was mainly used by the daimyōs (feudal teachers) as part of the sankin kōtai, a system requiring regular stays in Edo to force them to make allegiance to shogun. This has contributed to the development of infrastructure along the road, in particular theshukuba(relay stations) where passengers and processions could rest, feed and change mounts.

The 27 stations of the Kaidō

The route of the Kaidō is composed of 27 main stations, starting from Nihonbashi, the zero point of all major roads in Japan of the Edo era. The first 17 stages are common with the Nikkō Kaidō, another axis towards the Nikkō shrines. Here are some remarkable steps:

• Senju-shuku (Adachi, Tokyo): exit point of Edo, this stage was an animated hub.
• Koga-shuku (Koga, Ibaraki): a fortified city with still today remains of walls and gardens.
• Utsunomiya-shuku (Utsunomiya, Tochigi): known for its sanctuary Futarasan-jinja and its famous gyozas.
• Ashino-shuku (Nasu, Tochigi)This mountain stage offers bucolic landscapes and thermal springs.
• Shirakawa-shuku (Shirakawa, Fukushima): road terminus, the town houses the castle of Komine, an excellent example of restored defensive architecture.

Some of these stations have now disappeared or have been absorbed by urbanization, but others still retain cobbled sections of road, miles or inns of the era.

Sendaidō and Matsumaedō: secondary roads to the north

Since the beginning of Kaidō there were several secondary routes. The best known is theSendaidō, which joined the city of Sendai. It was extended by theMatsumaedō, until Hakodate, in Hokkaidō Island. These extensions made it possible to reach the territories further north, especially for trade and trade with the indigenous peoples of Ezo (the former name Hokkaidō).

With the development of Hakodate and the opening of Japan to Russia in the 19th century, these roads became essential for the transport of goods and diplomatic missions.

Visible heritage today

Although most of the original structures have disappeared or have been integrated into modern roads such as the National Road 4 or the Tōhoku motorway, some sections of the Kaidō Shū have been preserved or restored:

• Gonohe, Aomori Prefecture, a portion is still visible, familiarly called “the old road”. There are historical landmarks, a resting point of Emperor Meiji, and even references to local legends such as the baba-lioni.
• Information panelsSome sections provide a better understanding of the site function and the significant events in the vicinity.
• Lookoutoffer remarkable views of Mount Nakui, Mount Hakkōda and the Pacific Ocean in clear weather.

How to travel through the Kaidō Shū today

It is possible to partially follow the path of the Kaidō on foot or by bike, depending on the sections. Here are some practical tips to explore this historic route:

• Tokyo to UtsunomiyaThis portion largely follows urban areas. It is interesting to stop in the historical districts of Koshigaya, Kasukabe or Utsunomiya.
• Utsunomiya in Shirakawa: more rural, this part allows you to explore cities like Tawara and Nasu, where the road winds through the countryside and forests.
• In AomoriThe ancient segment of Gonohe is marked and suitable for walking, with several points of cultural and natural interest.

The train can be used to link the different steps. The line JR Tōhoku follows in large part the route of modern Kaidō.

Practical tips for travellers

• Recommended periodSpring (April-May) and autumn (October-November) are ideal for walking or pedaling, with mild temperatures and beautiful seasonal colours.
• EquipmentFor rural sections, walking shoes are recommended. Plan for water and snacks, with some sections not well served.
• AccommodationThere are traditional inns (ryokan), minshuku (inhabitant rooms) or modern hotels near the old resorts.
• Respect for heritageSome portions are sacred or classified, especially near shrines. Stay on marked roads and avoid disturbing local wildlife.

A cultural and historical experience

To explore the Kaidō is to follow the traces of samurai, traders, monks and travelers of the past. It is also an opportunity to cross a variety of landscapes, meet locals attached to the memory of the place, and discover a Japan that is often unknown.

Unlike traditional tourist tours, this route invites you to take time, soak up local history, and rediscover the importance of old communication routes in the structuring of Japanese territory.

Exploring the Kaidō shū allows us to understand Japan’s history in a living and concrete way. For lovers of heritage, hiking or simply off-road discoveries, this road offers a peaceful and rewarding journey.

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