Uwajima is the southernmost city of Ehima. It is a compact city, centered around a small castle on a hill. Above the city stands the mountain massif. Onigajo (the castle of the demon). Uwajima is located in a bay with a complex topology of islands and coves, making it a very picturesque city between the mountains and the sea. The city is famous for having been the fief of Date Masamune, a lord who promoted Uwajima as a centre of industry, education and culture. Thanks to this influence, the prefecture of Ehime is still known for its high concentration on education.
Castle of Uwajima
Considered a genius among Japanese castle builders, Todo Takatoro built this castle in 1601. Since then, it has served as a residence for nine generations of Date. The Tenshu was rebuilt by the second lord Date around 1666 and became the symbol of Uwajima and one of the last twelve castles of the Edo period throughout Japan.
Sanctuary Taga
The Taga shrine is dedicated to fertility, a great power is given to this place, adorned with phallic representations. Next to the sanctuary is a museum of graphic sex, forbidden to minors, with artifacts and paintings from all over the world. Photographers must pay 20,000 yen if they want to take photos.
Nanrakuen
Among Japan’s “100 Best Urban Parks”, Nanraku-en is also the largest Japanese garden in Shikoku. Plum and cherry flowers, iris and azaleas offer a magnificent landscape throughout the four seasons of the year.
Entry costs 310 yen.
Uwajima bulls
On one of the hills around the city stands an arena where the “bull sumo” takes place several times a year. Huge black bulls fight in the ring and fight until one of them escapes and runs away. The winners are dressed in a full sumo outfit. The other bulls of Uwajima are the “ushi-oni” or bull demons that can be discovered at the Warei festival in July. Oni ushi masks are used as decorations in many houses in Uwajima, giving the city a special atmosphere.
Yoshida Fureai District
Take a walk in a reconstitution of a street of the Edo era. A bukeyashiki (samurai residence), houses of merchants, farmers and fishermen, as well as a rice attic, permeate to discover the traditions and daily life of the time.
Dairaku-ji
Also known as the flying squirrel temple, the Dairaku-ji temple offers in addition to ginkgos about 400 years old, a Japanese garden, a folk museum and a camera museum built by the predecessor of Buddhist priests.
Butsumokoji
Butsumoku-ji, the temple of Buddha’s tree, is temple 42 of the 88 sacred temples of the Shikoku pilgrimage. It is located in the hinterland behind the port city of Uwajima. Butsumoku-ji is nestled in a cypress grove near the highway leading to Uwajima.
Ushi oni matsuri
Uwajima Ushi-Oni Matsuri is one of the largest festivals in Shikoku and is held from 22 to 24 July each year.
A gigantic ushi-oni of 5 to 6 meters with a scary head and its sword-shaped tail, scrolls through the streets, shaking the neck in each house to drive away evil.
Yasutshika
This folk dance has been practiced in the city of Uwajima for over 350 years. Eight people in deer masks, the body covered in draped fabrics, dance on complaining melodies while hammering their chest in rhythm.
Visitors can attend the show each year on October 29, the feast day of the sanctuary.
Culinary specialties
Uwajima offers delicious specialties, many of which are prepared from fish. Jakoten is a delicious fish cake freshly fried, but it is also very good cold. Another local dish is the “taimeshi”, a daurade cooked with rice.
Getting to Uwajima
Uwajima is accessible from Kochi by first taking an express limited train on the line JR Dosan to Kubokawa, followed by a local train on the line JR Yodo to Uwajima. The one-way journey takes 3.5 to 4 hours and costs about 4,500 yen. Using only local trains for the entire journey saves about 1,500 yen, but adds up to two hours to the journey time. The trip is fully covered by the All Shikoku Rail Pass, but the holders of the Japan Rail Pass must pay an additional 210 yen, as the trains partially use non-JR tracks.
Uwajima is also a ferry access point on Kyushu Island arriving at Beppu.
With its history of over 1000 years, its traditions and culture make Uwajima a stage city or enjoy a weekend on the road toKyushu. Easy access, it will make a good drop point to Matsushima or inside Shikoku.
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