Kanazawa, capital of Ishikawa Prefecture, is known for its well-preserved neighbourhoods of the Edo era, art museums and regional craftsmanship and its ancient samurai district.
Nagamachi
Kanazawa was once the economic and administrative center of the Kaga estate (prefecture of Ishikawa in the feudal era). During the Edo period, it grew rapidly, reaching more than 100,000 inhabitants, transforming it into one of the largest fortified cities in feudal Japan. Its population competed with that of Rome and Madrid at the time. With the castle in its center, the city was designed taking into account both defensive and economic aspects. Members of the upper classes often received land for their residences close to that of the feudal lord (daimyo) in the castle, while the commoners lived near the banks of the city.
The district of Nagamachi, located near the city centre, was the place where the samurai of medium to high rank lived – which is why it is sometimes described as the samurai district of the city. The historical value of the Nagamachi district lies in its unusual state of conservation. He escaped large-scale fires, including incendiary bombings that damaged other major cities such as Tokyo and Osaka during World War II. As a result, it retains many features of the Edo period: narrow streets, a drainage and water supply system still in service and restored samurai houses.
Many of these homes retain their original earth walls (Tsuchi-kabe), which are still covered in straw mats in winter to protect them from frost and the resulting cracks. A walk in Nagamachi, where there is still an atmosphere of the Edo period, offers an overview of the legacy of Kanazawa and Japan.
Oyama jinja
The shrine that consecrated Maeda Toshiie was moved to the current location in 1873. The main door is an amazing blend of traditional Japanese, Chinese and European religious architectural elements. This door, which was designated as Japan’s important cultural property, was completed in 1875. One of the highlights of the Oyama sanctuary is the garden with its pond and artificial island and a bridge with the image of ancient musical instruments, such as the biwa (Japanese short-sleeved luth).
Residence Nomura
The house has a boxed ceiling made entirely of Japanese cypress and fusuma-e (paintings on sliding door panels) created by the personal painter of the Maeda family. The garden inside the residence is remarkable thanks to its winding stream surrounded by ancient rocks with strange shapes.
Entry costs 550 yen.
Ashigaru Shiryokan
In feudal times, the size and design of houses were determined by the class and rank of a family. Many houses visible in Nagamachi, with their dirt walls bordering the streets, their private entrance doors and their gardens just beyond, were mid-class samurai residences. Those of lower rank, on the other hand, had houses surrounded by hedges, which also surrounded gardens. Visitors can see such a structure at the Ashigaru Museum in Kanazawa City.
Conserved in this museum are two of the oldest examples of ashigaru housing. The Ashigaru were feudal Japanese infantrymen. During the Sengoku (“warring states”) and Momoyama periods (1467 to 1600), they formed battalions of d’archers and armed men, but in the area of Kaga (feudal Ishikawa era centered on Kanazawa) during the Edo period (1603–67), they were designated to the lowest rank of the samurai class.
The museum exhibits the Takanishi family house and the Shimizu family house, two ashigaru residences. Visitors can walk through these historic houses to learn more about housing, life and society of the ashigaru.
Takanishi Family House
In the Edo period (1603-1867), the ashigaru (fantassins, the lowest rank of samurai) often lived in continuous rows of dwellings called nagaya “long houses”. In the prosperous estate of Kaga (Ishikawa of the feudal era centered on Kanazawa), however, the ashigaru were assigned individual houses with gardens. It is believed that this unusual incentive, along with Kaga’s economic opportunities, has made the domain attractive to the ashigaru.
The Takanishi family house, with the Shimizu family house next door, is one of the oldest remaining individual houses for the ashigaru in Kanazawa. The descendants of the original Ashigaru owners lived in the house until 1994, when it was dismantled and moved here to be part of the Ashigaru Museum in Kanazawa City. Previously, the residence was located in the area designated for “fast feet” (hikyaku). The Hikyaku were known for their speed and unique racing style. They delivered everything, from correspondence and goods to warrants. In the relatively peaceful Edo period, hiyaku was the main occupation of many ashigaru.
Inside the Takanishi family home, visitors can learn more about ashigaru organizations, life, residential areas and housing. The Shimizu family house next door presents life and daily activities.
Family House Shimizu
During the Edo period (1603–67), ashigaru (fantassins) generally lived in continuous rows of dwellings called nagaya. They had no choice but to endure harsh living conditions. Compared to this standard that existed throughout the country, however, the ashigaru of the Kaga estate (Ishikawa of the feudal era centered on Kanazawa) enjoyed more comfortable accommodation: each family received a completely independent house with its own garden.
The Shimizu family house, like the Takanishi family house next door, is one of the oldest ashigaru houses in Kanazawa. She was moved there in the 1990s to be part of the Ashigaru Museum in Kanazawa City. Until he was displaced, the descendants of the original owners of the ashigaru continued to live there. Its previous location was in the residential area devolved to the ashigaru which served as “fast feet” (hikyaku). The Hikyaku were known for their speed and unique racing style.
The Shimizu family house is an excellent example of the ashigaru houses of the time. Visitors can discover something about the lives of these infantrymen by walking around the rooms of the house. The interior is divided into a reception area for guests comprising an entrance (genkan) with an entrance hall (genkan no ma), a formal reception room (zashiki) and private areas reserved for family use. These included the kitchen (nagashi), the living room (cha no ma, literally tea room) and the bedroom/working room (nando and kagi no ma).
Admission to the museum is free.
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