Hagi is an ancient fortified town located away from the main means of transport along the peaceful coast of the Japanese Sea in Yamaguchi Prefecture. It was once the capital of the Mori clan, one of the most powerful clans of the feudal era. Mori lords ruled the present Yamaguchi (then known as Choshu) for more than 250 years and played a central role in the restoration of Meiji in the second half of the 19th century.
Hagi is best known for its well-preserved old castle town and its local Hagiyaki pottery, which is among the best in Japan. The city was fortunate to have avoided major disasters since the Edo period (1603-1867), thus maintaining an appearance generally consistent with the urban planning plans of centuries ago. Several former Samurai and merchant residences survive and are open to the public.
Centre-city preserved
Having avoided major disasters since the Edo period, the basic plan of the city of Hagi remained the same until today. Although only the ruins of Hagi Castle remain, some streets in the city centre are beautifully preserved, bordered by feudal white walls, ancient samurai residences, some of which are open to the public.
One can discover the residences of the Kikuya, Kubota and Kido Takayoshi families, an influential Japanese statesman who helped restore Meiji in 1868.
A combined 800 Yens ticket allows you to visit all residences in the preserved area.
Hagi Museum
This well-designed museum presents maps of Hagi’s past and present, as well as dioramas of the fortified city. It tells the story of famous premises such as Yoshida Shoin. There are also exhibitions on agriculture, marine life and geography of the region.
Entrance of 520 yen
Hagi pottery museum
This small museum is located on the second floor of a souvenir shop selling Hagiyaki pottery. Valuable works by Hagiyaki, dating from most of the 1600s, areShown. The museum is located near the entrance doors to the ruins of Hagi Castle.
Shoin Shrine
Shoin Shrine is dedicated to Yoshida Shoin, an important figure of Hagi who inspired revolutionary ideas at the dusk of Japan’s feudal era (mid 1800s). Shoin advocated western learning and the restoration of power to the emperor, thus openly defying the Shogunate in power. Although Shoin did not live until the Meiji Restoration (1868), many of his students were pioneers of the creation of modern Japan, and Shoin is considered by many as a patriot who sacrificed himself for the good of his country.
In 1854, Shoin was persecuted by the Shogunate for trying to go abroad without permission and sentenced first to prison and then to house arrest. After being released for a brief period, he was killed at the age of 30 for a failed assassination attempt against a Shogunate official. The current sanctuary building was completed in 1955 in memory of Shoin and is located east of the former fortified town of Hagi, not far from Tokoji temple.
Enseiji Temple
Enseiji is a rare example of a temple and a coexisting sanctuary in the same place. This coexistence was common until Shintoism and Buddhism were forcibly separated during the Meiji period. On the temple grounds, visitors can discover a large stone lantern with mobile supports to withstand earthquakes. Japan’s Prime Minister, Ito Hirobumi, learned reading and calligraphy when he was a child.
Hagi Meirinkan
The former Hagi Meirinkan clan school was established in 1718 to educate the Mori clan. The school was on the grounds of Hagi Castle for about 130 years before being moved to its current location just outside the former castle town for expansion. After the end of the feudal era, the premises served as primary school until 2014.
Today, there are four wooden schools and a few smaller structures, one of which served as a gym of the former clan school where students practiced fencing and throwing. Two of the four schools are open to the public: Honkan and Nigokan. Honkan is free to enter and offers some tourist facilities, while Nigokan houses a paying museum.
Mount Kasayama
At its top is a small crater of only 30 meters in diameter and depth, in which visitors can descend by a staircase or bypass a short path. There is also an observation terrace that offers beautiful views of the Sea of Japan.
At the foot of Mount Kasayama is the pond Myojinike. In the woods near the pond are the Kazaana holes, openings in the rocky soil of the forest, where the fresh air constantly blows. The phenomenon is the result of the evaporation of rain and seawater that had penetrated the rocky surface, thus lowering the temperature of the surrounding air. This natural air conditioner is particularly popular during hot summers, and meals and drinks are served around the holes (10am to 4pm, except Wednesday).
Mount Kasayama is located about six kilometres north of downtown Hagi. There is about one bus per hour from the Hagi bus centre to the Koshigahama bus stop, which is a few steps from the Myojinike pond. Buses depart to Horikoshi or Nagoeki-mae . The one-way journey from the bus station takes 15 minutes and costs 310 yen. Walking from the pond to the top of Kasayama takes about 30 minutes.
To Hagi
Shin-Yamaguchi Station is located on the Shinkansen main line towards Fukuoka,Osakaand Tokyo. The nearest airports are Yamaguchi Ube Airport and Iwami Airport near Masuda in Shimane Prefecture. A bus takes 70 minutes to and from Iwami Airport. There are also buses to Akiyoshi-dai (55 minutes), Hagi (70 minutes) and Tsuwano from JR Yamaguchi train station.
The JR San-in line runs along the coast of the Japanese Sea via Matsue,IzumoMasuda and Hagi. There are trains from Shimonoseki at Higashi-Hagi station (3 hours).
Hagi is this kind of historic and picturesque little but fascinating town that easily deserves a long stay to see its many attractions and enjoy them at best. It will be a beautiful step in the discovery of theChugokuWhether coming from the south via Yamaguchi or the east from Tottori Prefecture.
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