The Gokaido, or the “Five Routes of Japan”, is a major network of communication channels established during the Edo era. Far from being mere ancient paths, these roads bear witness to an essential part of Japanese history. They linked Edo to the country’s strategic regions, structuring exchanges, people flows and cultural dynamics. Today, following the traces of the Gokaido allows access to a deep Japan, punctuated with preserved landscapes, historical remains and still alive traditions.
Interactive map of gokaido
Origins and function of Gokaido
The establishment of the Gokaido dates back to the early seventeenth century, under the Tokugawa Shogunate. The objective was clear: to strengthen central power by facilitating administrative, military and commercial control of the country. Each of the five roads left Edo (now Tokyo), the heart of political power, to serve other major poles.
The roads were carefully arranged, punctuated with relays calledshukuba, where travellers could rest, change frames, eat or spend the night. These relays quickly became animated microcosms, mixing inns, artisans, merchants and sometimes travelling artists.
Tokaido: maritime axis towards Kyoto
The Tokaido, literally “East Sea Road”, was the most frequented and prestigious of the five. It linked Edo to Kyoto for over 500 km. Famous for her 53 relays, she was immortalized by Utagawa Hiroshige in her famous prints.
Crossing cities like Hakone, Shizuoka or Nagoya, Tokaido ran along the Pacific Ocean while offering exceptional views of Mount Fuji. Even today, many ancient sections are preserved, notably in Hakone-juku and Mariko-juku, offering an evocative atmosphere of the Edo era.
The Tokaido is now partly doubled by the Shinkansen route, allowing a contemporary reading of this ancestral route.
The Nakasendo: crossing the mountains
The Nakasendo, or “road through the mountain”, was an alternative to Tokaido, which was preferred in case of weather or political reasons. It was nearly 540 km long and marked by 69 relays, and also linked Edo to Kyoto, but through the Japanese Alps.
It is on this road that we find the villages of Tsumago and Magome, twoshukubaperfectly restored, today protected and popular with hikers. The path between these two relays is one of the most accessible and evocative of Japan, with its cobblestones, cedar forests and wooden houses with traditional architecture.
The Nakasendo is ideal for travelers wishing to walk several days in immersion in a natural and historical setting.
Koshu Kaido: Mount Fuji foothills road
Koshu Kaido linked Edo to the Kofu region (in the present Yamanashi prefecture), via the foothills of Mount Fuji. Less frequented than the Tokaido or the Nakasendo, however, it had a strategic role, especially for the transport of local wine, hence its current nickname of “vineyard road”.
The landscape is marked by mountains, valleys and rivers, with many shrines, including the Takeda Shrine, associated with the famous Takeda Shingen Lord. There are also ruins of feudal castles and thermal springs, making it an attractive route for lovers of history and nature.
The Kofu region, crossed by this road, is now one of Japan’s wine centers, adding an oenogastronomic dimension to the experience.
Nikko Kaido: the way to sacred shrines
Nikko Kaido linked Edo to Nikko, a city famous for hosting the Toshogu shrine, where Tokugawa Ieyasu, founder of the Shogunate, is resting. This short road, about 140 km, was mainly used during official processions and pious visits.
The road passes through wooded areas, old bridges like the famousShinkyoin Nikko, and small villages, some of which still retain elements of the Edo era. Nikko Kaido is now partially visible in the modern city, but preservation efforts still make it possible to capture its essence, especially around the city of Nikko.
For travellers staying in Tokyo, this route is ideal for a day or two cultural excursion.
The Oshu Kaido: towards the northern lands
Less known but historically important, Oshu Kaido was the route linking Edo to the Mutsu region in northern Honshu. It included Utsunomiya, Fukushima and Sendai, allowing access to more remote and often isolated land from the north.
This route allowed for the transport of agricultural products, but also served as a military route to border territories. Today, some segments are still visible in the Tohoku region, especially around Hiraizumi, a site classified for its Buddhist temples and gardens.
The landscapes are marked by wilder mountains, rice fields and rustic villages, with a more contemplative atmosphere.
Shukuba relays and villages: beating heart of the road
The relays (shukuba-machi) formed the logistic and social spine of the Gokaido. Each village was organized around several establishments: inns (honjin for nobles, hatago for ordinary travellers), tea houses, stables, shops.
Narai-juku, on the Nakasendo, is one of the best preserved examples, with its blackened wooden houses, narrow alleys and old lanterns. These villages not only served as a stopover, but were places of encounter and exchange.
Someshukubabut others have been restored or reconstituted, often with the support of local communities concerned with preserving their heritage.
How to discover Gokaido today
Exploring the Gokaido does not require you to travel all five roads. Many itineraries are available during the day or over two to three days. It is recommended to choose a well-preserved section, such as the Tsumago–Magome trail on the Nakasendo, or the outskirts of Hakone on the Tokaido.
Walking, cycling and even guided tours exist for some sections. It is also possible to travel by train parallel to the old road and to stop in the old relays for targeted visits.
Provide good walking shoes, a favorable weather, and if possible accommodation in a traditional hostel (ryokan) will considerably enrich the experience.
Gokaido in art and cultural memory
The Gokaido has left a strong imprint in Japanese visual and literary culture. The prints of Hiroshige, including his Tokaido series, are emblematic. They allow to observe the landscapes, architecture and life scenes of the era.
The stories of travellers like those of Matsuo Basho also illustrate the spirit of contemplation and discovery that animated the walkers of the Edo era. These works continue to influence modern artists and travellers.
Walking on the Gokaido means walking in the footsteps of writers, lords and anonymities, all carried by the same impulse towards elsewhere.
A tasteful immersion along the roads
Each road offers the opportunity to discover local specialities. On Tokaido, the grilled eels of Hamamatsu,mochiShizuoka or Kyoto confectionery is a must.
Nakasendo celebrates soba noodles, chestnuts and artisanal sake. The Koshu Kaido allows you to taste Japanese wines from Koshu grape variety, accompanied by fruits such as peach or grapes.
These culinary discoveries are not accessory: they extend the sensory experience of the trip and allow to better understand the terroirs crossed by the Gokaido.
Following the paths of Gokaido is to discover a discreet Japan, rooted in its history and landscapes. These roads are not just connecting points on a map; They weave an ancient narrative, made of encounters, efforts and contemplation. For the curious traveller, they are an invitation to slow down, to observe, to understand the country in its deepest nuances.
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